Julie and I decided a UK weekend excursion was in order with the Scottish Borders being an ideal and often overlooked destination. We were joined on this trip by Alan and Carol on their Suzuki Bandit and, on their recommendation, we chose our accommodation from the Farm stay UK guide. Our first choice was a biker friendly place in Hawick but, due to a large local wedding, no one could offer us Saturday night accommodation anywhere in Hawick. So we opted for the excellent Billerwell Farm B & B near Bonchester Bridge mid way between Hawick and Jedburgh. Thank goodness for the wedding I say. This place was tranquillity personified, the only noise being the burbling of the nearby river and sounds of the local wildlife although it was too far out of the village to walk to the pub for our evening meal. It never stopped raining for a second anyway so walking was out of the question!!
Our journey took us northbound via the A1, stopping at Scotch Corner for a break accompanied by a cuppa and bacon roll. Suitably nourished we left the monotonous A1 for the more exciting A68 from Darlington all the way up to the outskirts of Jedburgh, Traffic was light, as was the rain, but the riding was good, no hurry and plenty of time to take in the magnificent scenery. I have travelled this road many times during my truck driving years but this was the first time Alan or I had ridden it on our bikes. We were not disappointed despite the inclement weather. Unfortunately, the spectacular view from the border point at Carter Bar was obscured by clouds – wasn’t that an album by Pink Floyd – LOL – and the Piper looked distinctly soggy.
Our rooms were spotless and spacious with what has to be one of the most comfortable beds I have ever slept in. Breakfast was a top notch Scottish special with black pudding and Haggis nestling alongside the usual fare. Plenty of tea and toast followed so a hearty lunch would not be required. Sadly the rain had not abated overnight. Undeterred, we set off for a circular local ride taking in Hawick and Jedburgh where we wiled away a couple of hours, filled up with fuel and a had a light lunch. As we entered the cafe, a couple were stood outside in full Harley clobber which included a pocket dog in it’s own leather Harley waistcoat. Apparently this mini mutt is well known in Harley circles as it travels everywhere on the bike with the owners!!
The following day we headed off to Berwick on Tweed and Holy Island or Lindisfarne whichever suits you, a place I have passed often travelling the A1 but one I have never managed to visit. We opted for a main road route as the rain was relentless but the forecast hinted at a brighter afternoon. We opted for Berwick as first stop arriving just as the rain began to clear – whoopee. A lightening quick tour the ancient city walls gave the old legs a stretch before mounting up and heading south to Holy Island. If you have never been here yourself, the island is accessed by a long causeway exposed at low tide only. There are several warning photo’s of clever buggers in 4 x 4’s who have tried to beat the tide and failed – very funny. It is quite a surreal experience crossing by bike as even at low tide the causeway is not particularly proud of the sea.
The car park is basically a field with a hard standing at each end specifically for motorcycles, how cool and thoughtful is that. We were all surprised to find a village and community on the Island complete with
tourist trap cafe’s and shops plying their trade. I have to confess to buying a Lindisfarne T-shirt, a bottle of Mead – samples on offer – and a bottle of what is in essence Bailey’s. Julie was not amused!!! The sun stayed out all afternoon, so we had an hour laying on the grass bank at the foot of the old castle overlooking the sea. We headed back to Bonchester Bridge on a more scenic, B road route passing through Kirk Yetholm, the official end of the Pennine Way long distance footpath. There appeared to be only one pub in the village, a little worse for wear too, but we were hungry by now so in we went in search of an evening meal. The old saying “Never judge a book by its’ cover” must have been written for this place. The inside looked tired too but staff and locals were friendly enough and they had recently employed a new chef. The food was bang on, pub food but very good pub food and plenty of it
Sadly, the rain returned overnight, so a wet ride south was a on the cards. We bade farewell to our hosts and headed south along B roads that skirted the massive Kielder Forest. A damn good ride in the wet which must be stunning in the dry. Crossing the A 69 at Haydon Bridge we headed into another area I have frequently circumnavigated but never entered – the North Pennines and Weardale. What a spectacular surprise, the B6295 through Allendale to Stanhope on the A689 was breathtaking with the dark, brooding rain clouds adding to the drama. This continued all the way down the B6278 to Barnard Castle – fantastic – we will have to return to explore more of this area.
Scotch Corner saw the rain end just as it had started here on our northbound leg, the A1 was it’s usual 2 lanes solid 50 mph crawl all the way to the M18 but hey, you have to take the rough with the smooth.